Seen on Safari

For my zoologically curious friends, a list of the animals and some of the birds we saw on safari (thanks Charley, for passing on the list!): 

Rhino
Bush buck

Camel (this was a tourist trap)
Baboon (with babies)
Cheetah (with babies)
Bush baby (Lesser galago)
Leopard
Hippo (with baby)
Cape buffalo
Crocodile
Lion(ess) with cubs
Golden jackal
Warthog (with wartlet)
Elephant (and very young baby)
Topi
Vervet monkey
Colobus monkey
Stienbok

Black backed jackals
Golden jackal
Dwarf mongoose
Aardvark
Bat-eared foxes
Giraffe
Zebra (with baby)
African wild cat
African scrub Hare
Leopard Tortoise
Eland
Hartebeeste (Kongoni)

Spotted Hyena
Striped hyena
Wildebeest (white bearded Gnu, with baby)
Thompsons gazelle
Grants gazelle
Dik Dik
Impala
Water buck
Reedbok
Hyrax
Terrapin
Grass snake

Birds we identified:

Crown crane
Kori busterd
Cattle egret
Red capped lark
Rufus naped lark
Paradise whydah (very long tail only during mating season)
Black chested snake eagle
Black shouldered kite

Spoonbill
Lesser and greater Flamingo
Superb Starling
Hoopoe (woodpecker like bird)
Guinea fowl
Secretary bird
Ostrich
Vulture
Yellow throated long-claw bird
Fishers lovebird
Tawny eagle
Maribou stork

Tanzanian Safari

Flying over the new Lengai crate

After a fantastic whirlwind trip around Rwanda, my uncle and I headed east to Tanzania. In Arusha we met three of my cousins and two friends for a ten day safari. We began our trip by flying from Arusha to Nduara Camp, on the Serengeti plains just east of the National Park border. On our way, we flew over Ol Doinyo Lengai (which the Masai people refer to as “Mountain of God”) and saw its new crater, a result of the mountain’s volcanic eruption less than two years ago. 

Lengai

The plains at Nduara Camp were very dry due to delayed rainfalls and heavy usage by  Masai, who graze thousands of cattle on the plains. The first few days we were accompanied by what seemed like all the 450,000 gazelle living in the Serengeti; quite a few giraffe, many zebra and hyena, and a pride of elephants with babies. The most stunning part of Nduara for me was the sheer vastness of the plains. It was absolutely breathtaking, and a real change for my eyes which have seen nothing but rolling hills for the last year.  

Serengeti plains near Nduara Camp

After a few days at the Nduara Camp we drove west to Ndutu, a wetter area where we were able to observe more wildlife. Our first morning at the camp I woke up to catch a glimpse of two adult and one baby wildebeest running from a hyena less than fifty feet away from me. At Ndutu, we also had a chance to catch a view of more zebra, elephants, wildebeest, buffalo, flamingo, some cheetah with cubs, two lion prides, hippos, a leopard, and even a crocodile.

Most evenings ended with a beautiful sunset, equipped with fire, seats, and a drink

Our last safari stop was Ngorogoro Crater—an unbroken, unflooded volcanic caldera. It was formed when a giant volcano erupted over two million years ago. The crater is 2,000 feet deep and covers 100 square miles. Again, I was more impressed with the landscape than the animals. The fact that we were inside a volcano with so much life around us was something I couldn’t seem to wrap my head around.

Wildebeest blocking the road at Ngorogoro Crater

The Crater was fantastic, something I feel incredibly lucky to have seen and won’t ever forget. But, after over a week of working really hard to see animals on the plains, Ngorogoro felt a little9 bit like a petting zoo. The animals were completely habituated to the presence of large safari cars and did not move a bit. In fact, the wildebeest would not leave the road to let us pass! Here we saw (among other things) more hyena, buffalo, lions, hippo, and rhino.

Ngorogoro Crater

At the Ngorogoro Crater Lodge, I opened a National Geographic magazine in the bathroom. Expecting to read an article about the exotic place I was currently in (what else does the National Geographic write about, other than incredibly exceptional things?!), I was surprised to see an article about Central Pennsylvania. I guess exotic and interesting are terms open for interpretation.

After our Crater visit, I said goodbye to my uncle and cousins at the Kilimanjaro Airport, where they went on to catch international flights. I re-boarded the plane we had taken from outside the Crater and headed to the smaller Arusha airstrip close to town. Steve, the very friendly pilot, let me drive the plane back! That’s right: yours truly, who at sixteen couldn’t drive a golf cart in a straight line, maneuvered a plane in Africa. Fantastic trip.
 

The Greatest of the Great Apes

Less than 800 mountain gorillas exist in the whole world today. They live on only six extinct volcanic mountains within the Virunga Volcanoes, located on the borders of Rwanda, Uganda, and the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Diane Fossey (shout out Cornell!) is often attributed with bringing celebrity to what she called “the greatest of the great apes” in her book Gorillas in the Mist.

Before describing in detail the whole gorilla trekking experience and encouraging any and every one to do it, I just need to say: I have never in my life wanted to -at the same time- hug and run from anything, as much as I did the mountain gorillas. Of all the animal encounters and all the unusual adventures I’ve had so far in my short twenty-three years of life, I think this was the most awesomely, bizarrely, terrifying and magnificent experience I have had. This is my poor attempt to put it into words--  

On a Wednesday afternoon we checked into the beautiful Mountain View Gorilla Lodge (I had no idea such places existed in Rwanda before now!). The staff was incredibly friendly, especially after I spoke to them in Kinyarwanda. We had a delicious dinner and I slept very well in my enormous room-- except for the moment when a young gentleman staff member came to add fuel to my fireplace by pounding on the door and announcing “I come to make fire!”

The next morning around 5:30AM, our lovely driver Augustine took us to the Volcano National Park entrance. The park reception area was incredibly well organized, with private guides, park guides, Rwandan dancers, tea, coffee, and around eighty or so tourists.

Augustine told us: before the treks begin, the guides put the tourists into groups based on their appeared strength and stamina. There are six different gorilla families that tourists can visit, each at a varying distance and altitude from the park entrance.

Just for fun, Augustine took me with him to meet the other guides. “Is this little white girl your tourist? Why are you bringing her to the meeting?” another guide asked Augustine in Kinyarwanda as we approached. “Excuse me?” I responded, much to the guide’s surprise. “It can’t be! You speak Kinyarwanda!” he responded. And that is how I entertained the guides for a few minutes and secured my Uncle Peter and I spots in the slow group.

Once introductions finished, we set out trekking. Our guides Beck and Placide explained that we would be visiting the Sabinio group, named after the Sabinio Mountain where they used to live. This was a large gorilla family, and included (according to our guides) the largest Silverback Gorilla in the world: Guhonda, Kinyarwanda for “to chest beat”.

Our group began trekking through potato fields and into the forest. After about an hour, we met more park guides, who told us we were very close to the gorillas. We put all our things down and continued walking, more cautiously now, and then suddenly: gorillas!

First we saw one of the group’s females with her infant. A few seconds later, the younger silverback came forward. We stood in awe. The gorillas continued their activities naturally, taking little notice of the intruding humans. We observed several females and babies: resting, cleaning each other, and playing.

After a few minutes, we heard a noise coming from the top of some bamboo trees. “Guhonda is up there,” the guides told us.  I was slightly skeptical of the supposed 260 kilogram (almost 600 lbs) silverback gorilla being able to climb to the top of bamboo trees, but then I saw him come down. Our guides told us to move back, and we did, but not as quickly as Guhonda came forward. He moved full speed towards us, swinging his arms so that his right hand nearly pushed my uncle and came within less than two feet of me.  

Once Guhonda had passed, the guides chuckled. “He’s showing off for you!” It certainly worked. We continued to watch the gorillas as they went about their business: playing. The babies were absolutely adorable-- climbing all over their mothers and pounding their chests, trying to imitate their father. It was amazing how gently and gracefully the older gorillas carried their young. The underlying similarities with human behavior I found to be the most fascinating part of our whole experience.

There was a young Australian man in our group who was very set on getting as close to the young gorillas as he could, despite the guides’ continuous reminders to step back. My uncle and I were crouched to the left of him when the bold tourist decided to move a bamboo branch out of his way ad get a better shot. The crack of the branch agitated Guhonda, who aggressively began to move forward: straight in my uncle and my direction.

From reading Fossey’s book, I know that gorillas are by nature not aggressive or violent animals. Still, I don’t think I’ve ever been so afraid in my life. Walking with lions in South Africa felt like a comedy compared to being in the presence of this silverback. I froze completely. Now I understand why the people in youtube videos pee their pants when approached by gorillas: I came pretty close. The guide standing nearby pulled me back by the shirt collar, and I watched as Guhonda rolled passed us again, this time within what seemed like less than a foot from my uncle, who remained crouched with his head down. 

It took me a minute to stand up again after Guhonda was out of sight, I was trembling everywhere! Our hour of observation was almost up and at that point. Although I still had an incredible desire to cuddle with the baby gorillas, I also felt very ready to leave them alone, and we did. Until next time, Guhonda. 

Nyungwe National Forest

Nyungwe Forest is the largest mountain rain forest in Africa, located in the southwest corner of Rwanda. It stands almost 3000 meters above sea level at its highest pointand is home to 360 different plant and flower species; 270 different types of birds; and lots of different animal species, including all sorts of monkeys and chimpanzees.

Blue Monkey

The first time I saw Nyungwe Forest was about a month after arriving in Rwanda. I drove through the forest on my way to the western city Cyangugu, where I attended a Peace Corps conference. Having trekked through the Sahara desert by camel in Morocco less than a month before, the green blew me away last March. It was interesting to return now, almost a year later, and realize how familiar I have become with the breathtakingly beautiful scenery that covers Rwanda.

My uncle Peter and I arrived at the park around 10am, way too late to do any good bird watching or catch the monkeys and chimpanzees. Still, we arranged to hike our way through part of the forest to the recently built canopy. 

Crossing the canopy bridge with our guide

Right before stepping onto the canopy our guide pointed out a monkey hanging in the tree. After a few seconds, we realized there was in fact a big group of blue monkeys gathered around! We observed them eating small fruits, jumping lengths of what seemed to me at least 30 feet, and making all sorts of silly sounds to get each other’s attention.

We proceeded to walk across the canopy, which is broken into three sections and crosses about 75 meters. In the land of 1,000 hills, I often daydream about the conveniences of having bridges that connect one hilltop to another. These could turn an hour long trip into a ten minute walk:  if only I didn’t have to walk half a mile around the valley that separates one hill from another! I always dread hearing a Rwandan tell me we’re taking the “shortcut” because I know it means instead of going around the valley, on the hilltops, we’re going to walk directly down this hill and up the next. 

Well, I can now safely say that I’ve lived this daydream and I won’t have it again. The views were spectacular and I’m very glad I did it: but I also realized that I am developing a fear of heights.

While walking across the canopy and hanging onto the metal ropes for dear life, I was able to take in spectacular views and catch a peak of the most beautiful bird I think I’ve ever seen: the purple chested sunbird. I’ve always thought bird watching was silly, but after admiring several different birds in Rwanda I think I’ve joined the cult.

Purple Chested Sunbird

The Rwandan government has done, and continues to do, a lot to try and conserve, preserve, and expand its national forests. This is evident in Nyungwe, which is extremely well kept and truly a pleasure to walk and drive through.

Dada-wacu

At the beginning of February, my Uncle Peter came to visit Rwanda before taking me on an incredible safari in Tanzania. It was fantastic to show a family member (and Returned Peace Corps Volunteer) what my life is like right now, and to introduce my colleagues and neighbors to “another” member of my family (Ben, everyone asked about you!). 

Crossing the canopy at Nyungwe Forest

It was also fascinating to see Rwanda from a tourist’s perspective. After fourteen months, Rwanda has truly become home and I have become accustomed to just about everything (almost). Answering my uncle’s questions and observing what he found interesting was really fun and reminded me how lucky I am to be here.

In five short days we were able to cover most of the country: including Nyungwe Forest and Volcano National Park, which I’ll write about separately. My uncle was a really great sport and put up with the incredibly long drives on dirt roads magnificently. We even got to spend a couple hours at my site, where several of my older female colleagues giggled like kindergartners meeting Mickey Mouse at Disney World, and everyone insisted I teach my uncle Kinyarwanda because of course five days is enough to learn the entire language.

Finish your dinner, there are starving children in Africa

I’ve always thought this argument for making kids eat their food was silly. Whether or not you finish your food will make absolutely no difference to the starving children in Africa. They will remain starving and you will either gain weight or create more trash.

Enjoying  chistorra with my sisters in San Sebastian

This holiday season, I was lucky enough spend some time with my family in San Sebastian, Spain. Although the absence of my Abuelo Daniel was hard felt and difficult, I really cannot describe how wonderful it was to be with my parents, my sisters, aunts, and cousin, who I hadn’t seen in over a year! Of course eating jamon Serrano, enjoying three hour lunches at Barkaiztegi, and bar hopping for tapas around the Parte Vieja weren’t so bad either.

I have been told time and time again: the most difficult part of a volunteer’s Peace Corps experience is coming home. Instead of suffering from stress about un-sanitized meat and the swarm of people following you everywhere; you have panic attacks about the ridiculously large selection of cereals on isle 14 and why your Applebees order took five minutes, not three hours-- things that before a short two years in Peace Corps, were normal. 

My visit to Spain was too short to really deal with reverse-culture shock. Mostly, I just filled myself with good food, enjoyed family time and western plumbing. I was, however, seriously thrown off by one thing: kids and their rude, spoiled, habits.

Now I have said this before, and I will say it again: I’m not the most kid-friendly person. Africa has made me much, much better at interacting with kids. In fact, after a year here I really thought I was starting to like them, maybe want some of my own one day. Then I went to Spain.

Suddenly, I was yelling at my seven year old cousin: “Do you know, every day, I work with children your age who have nothing to eat? NOTHING! They spend their days carrying 20 liter water jugs on their head! They don’t complain! Do you understand how lucky you are? Eat your delicious fish! It’s delicious! What is wrong with you?! Behave yourself!”.

My cousin was seriously confused. It was unrealistic and rude of me to expect her to understand the hardships of children on a different continent who share nothing in common with her other than age. For a second, her inability to comprehend the struggles of my young Rwandan neighbors infuriated me.

In reality, I hope my cousin will never experience the hunger or strife suffered by the children I work with. But I do hope that she, and all the other picky eaters in this world, will in some way appreciate their luck. The luxury of walking through a grocery store with isles, the ability to be picky, to refuse food and not be hungry: this makes you part of a very, very small percentage of this world.

So I guess I did go through a bit of reverse culture shock. I don’t think you should finish your dinner just because my neighbors in Africa are starving, but maybe don’t complain about getting baked potatoes instead of mashed, regular instead of diet. Take a deep breath, enjoy the variety and the abundance. Life is good.

Girls Leading Our World and Boys Excelling

Campers & PCV Facilitators at BE Camp

Gender and Development is a priority among Peace Corps Volunteers worldwide. In the 1990’s volunteers in Romania conducted a girl’s empowerment camp they called GLOW: Girls Leading Our World. Since then, the camp has been adopted across the globe in countries where PCV’s live and work. In 2009, Rwanda held the first national GLOW Camp in the capitol city, Kigali. The following year, GLOW was repeated, and a boy’s version: BE, Boys Excelling, was also conducted. In an effort to be more sustainable and inclusive, Peace Corps Rwanda headquarters requested volunteers conduct regional camps in 2011.

When I first heard about the project, I wasn’t impressed. Flashy, expensive, youth camps that local communities never asked for and will probably never conduct on their own, are conducted by all types of international NGOs. It didn’t seem to me like the kind of project meant for a Peace Corps Volunteer: where was the community need, input, and participation? Besides that, I’m not so great at interacting with children or teenagers, and I have never been a camp person. (Thanks Mama and Papa, for never sending me to Camp Thompson). 

 

Then one day my counterpart, Mama Fis, asked me when the GLOW Camps would be this year. Her daughter attended the GLOW Camp last year and loved it. “She learned so much English, she came back so happy!” Mama Fis told me, “I want Fis [her oldest son] to attend this year too!”.

And that’s how I ended up organizing my district’s GLOW & BE Camps.

With the BE Campers & Community Facilitators from my town

Preparing for the Camps was a great experience. I wrote and received my first Peace Corps grant, and got a chance to interact with a lot of local leaders that I otherwise probably would have never met. I felt like my coworkers and supervisors at the Health Center, Hospital, and local government office were finally able to see me “do” something, which I hope will result in more people approaching me with ideas for collaboration. Finally, as those of you who have worked with me in the past know, I love to be in charge.

GLOW Campers during the closing ceremony

The camps themselves went pretty well. On November 27^th we began the training of trainers for the boy’s camp (a day and a half of just PCVs and community facilitators), followed by four days of fun with twenty-nine boys between the ages of 14 and 18, who all live and study in and around the district. The following week, we did the same with girls.

Activities focused on goal setting; leadership; communication; healthy relationships; decision making; sexual and gender based violence; HIV/AIDS facts and myths; women’s health/birth control; and everyone’s favorite—condom demonstrations. In between lessons we played lots of games, and with the support of a local health center we were able to offer voluntary HIV testing and counseling, which almost all the students participated in. A total of 11 PCVs, 42 students, and over 30 community leaders completed and/or assisted in the successful execution of the camps.

At GLOW Camp, trying the Human Knot

Of course we had some hick-ups along the way (mental note: never expect a government official to show up on the right date or at the right time), but the students all seemed to have a great time and learn something along the way.

Now that the camps are finished, I’m excited to have almost twenty students from my site eager to begin GLOW & BE Clubs at their school. These clubs will allow the students to continue the conversation about issues they discussed at the camps, and share information with their peers. So much for not being good with teenagers!