It turns out wrestling is really popular in Niger. I got a first taste of what Nigerien wrestling is like over language immersion. I walked through sandy fields to a neighboring town and promptly found myself part of a group of probably one hundred or so people circled around two young men, decked out in fake Armani jeans and Arsenal FC shirts, grabbing at each other’s arms and legs. Two other men stood on the sidelines: one man with a winter coat (it was probably 85ºF out—this is “cold” in Niger) was acting as the referee, and one man circling the crowd, pounding on a drum and making sure the kids stayed far enough away from the fighters.
This I learned was amateur kokoa-ing, which is popular in rural villages. The National Wresting Tournament occurred a few weeks later. The day after Christmas, while walking through the large open market in Niamey, my attempts to bargain were often interrupted by sudden outbursts of screaming men who were crowded around radios listening to the fights. The same night, I watched the final match on my neighbor’s TV. The wrestlers look like they’re a weight class under sumo wrestlers, and wear similar diaper looking bottoms.
The kids all went crazy when the National Champion was finally announced. A large looking man from the Maradi region was paraded around the sandy arena on a horse and soon after received a check for 7 million CFA (around $14,000) and a car. Hadija, my host sister, remarked that he would now have many marriage proposals, so I should get in line.
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