6:00 AM- I wake up, realizing I’ve pressed my cell phone’s
snooze-button too many times to make it for a run. This happens often, which I
always regret later in the day when someone inevitably reminds me how much
weight I’ve gained since arriving. They say in Peace Corps you learn a lot
about yourself; I have learned I am an emotional eater.
6:30 AM- The tea kettle on my kerosene stove is ringing. I
have hot water for my bucket bath, oatmeal, and coffee. I have always been a
morning person and I take after my father in truly relishing this peaceful
morning ritual. Sipping the delicious Rwandan coffee, I try to relax and
prepare for the day.
7:00 AM- Daily Health Center staff meeting, which begins
anywhere from five to twenty minutes late. These meetings help me gage language
progress. In seven months I’ve made a lot of progress but still not enough to
give me confidence to contribute my opinions during the meetings. Accustomed to
running meetings in college, this is often a source of frustration for me.
8:00 AM- I spot the new nutritionist for the international NGO
that works in my district. The organization have just started a “new” nutrition
program across the district—which is exactly
the same as the HEARTH program the previous volunteer worked on, except it has
a different name, and therefore everyone I work with insists on completely
dismissing all previous work and starting from scratch. I want to show the
nutritionist all the data I’ve imported onto excel from the nutrition work I’ve
built on, and discuss with him how we can collaborate. I take my computer to
his office, and realize it’s broken. The nutritionist is busy and my lack of
visual aids and language skills makes him quickly lose interest.
9:30 AM- I sulk back to “my office”, only to realize that my
counterpart has left for the primary school in the village furthest away from
the health center. She’s gone to work on the national Maternal and Child Health
Campaign that is being implemented across the country this week. I’m frustrated
that she didn’t let me know she was going, since I try to take every
opportunity I can to leave the Health Center to make field visits and get to
know the community better.
10:00 AM- M&CH Campaign is fully underway. I help the
staff distribute
Vitamin A supplements to children under 5; mebendazole (which kills intestinal parasites)
to children under 14; iron and folic
acid to pregnant women; and bleach (to clean water) to all mothers. This is
very cool, but at this point in my service I’m itching for a project of my own.
What I’m doing can and should be done by health center staff. My attempts to
conduct “education sessions” as I give out medicine are received with blank
stares by mothers, terrorized faces by children, and hysterical laughs by my
coworkers.
12:30 PM- A friend from the hospital invites me for lunch,
which I accept immediately despite being exhausted from the morning activities.
Peace Corps is all about integration! On our way, I see a few nurses staring and
whispering to each other, to which all I can do is sigh. Rwanda is fairly
progressive when it comes to gender relations, but two young people of opposite
sexes enjoying time together seems to translate to gossip in small towns
everywhere around the globe. But, lunch is delicious and our conversation is a
rather comical mix of Kinyarwanda, English, and French on topics that range
from Colonel Kadafi to why my father insists on 600 cows.
2:00 PM- Back to work, which in the afternoon is slow to
nonexistent. I sit with the nurses, help distribute medicine, try to understand
the conversations around me, and try to laugh off the jokes. Teasing is a huge
part of Rwandan culture, which on a good day is funny, and on a bad day
unbearable. Today is turning out to be rather difficult, so the various
imitations of my poor Kinyarwanda pronunciation, the poking of my acne,
pinching of my muffin tops, and demands for money and American visas are not
appreciated.
5:00 PM- Work day is over! As I leave the health center with
a coworker, another nurse invites us for drinks. Despite my exhaustion, I
accept. I might not be saving the world, but at least I’m making friends!
6:00 PM- As we sip our sodas, I’m feeling inspired to study
more Kinyarwanda. The two nurses are talking and giggling, and I’m getting parts
of it, but still feel pretty left out. When I realize my friend is telling the
other nurse about her brother’s newborn son, I jump in the conversation.
“Congratulations! Your family must be so happy,” I exclaim. Both women become
silent and the nurse tells me in French, “she’s an orphan, her parents died
during the genocide”. There’s a few seconds of awkward silence and then the two
women continue the conversation as usual, but I remain dumbfounded. This part
of Rwandan history and culture, no matter how good my language gets, I will
never truly understand.
7:00 PM- I’m ready to go home after a long day, but just as
I get ready to say goodbye, one of the men who works at the local government
office comes to greet us. In a loud voice, so that everyone at the bar can hear
us, he begins to berate me. “ARRRRIIIIIMAR! Where have you been?! What work are
you doing?! Why have you not come to see me?!” I’m caught off guard and
embarrassed that everyone is now staring at us, but he continues, telling me
how much the previous Peace Corps Volunteer did for the community, how well she
spoke Kinyarwanda, and how good of friends they were. “She gave me reports
every week! What work are you doing? You are not seenable! You do not speak
Kinyarwanda!”. This hurts, a lot. I try to remain calm and collected, when one
of my supervisors from the health center comes over and tells me “Alma, people
at the health center are not happy because you refuse to speak in English with
them. They want to learn English but you only want to speak in Kinyarwanda”. Confused
and exhausted, I tell the government worker that I am not the previous
volunteer, that I do not like comparisons, and that if he has specific work he
wants me to do he can talk to me at work. Rwandans seldom show their emotions
and talk about them much less, but I make sure he understands that what he has
said has made me unhappy. I say goodbye to everyone else and head home.
8:00 PM- Frustrated and exhausted, I get into bed. I want to
tell someone about what just happened: talk about my emotions and get advice,
but who? Tomorrow I can talk to my counterpart about it, but the language and
cultural barriers will make the discussion limited; I can call another
volunteer, but the truth is not having gone through training in Rwanda, I have
not formed very close friendships with many other volunteers; I can call
home—but explaining the situation, the context, and the repercussions make
relatability and any advice offered rather strange.
Through this blog I try to document the more positive
aspects of my days, but I would be lying if I said it was all easy and fun. I
get a lot of emails asking me to describe what my average day is like, and what
my most difficult challenges are. There is no such thing as an average day, and
what I might consider difficult one day I might find easy and enjoyable the
next. What I just described is a particularly bad day, but the difference
between a bad day and a good day generally depends on my attitude, and maybe my
computer not breaking.