The Greatest of the Great Apes

Less than 800 mountain gorillas exist in the whole world today. They live on only six extinct volcanic mountains within the Virunga Volcanoes, located on the borders of Rwanda, Uganda, and the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Diane Fossey (shout out Cornell!) is often attributed with bringing celebrity to what she called “the greatest of the great apes” in her book Gorillas in the Mist.

Before describing in detail the whole gorilla trekking experience and encouraging any and every one to do it, I just need to say: I have never in my life wanted to -at the same time- hug and run from anything, as much as I did the mountain gorillas. Of all the animal encounters and all the unusual adventures I’ve had so far in my short twenty-three years of life, I think this was the most awesomely, bizarrely, terrifying and magnificent experience I have had. This is my poor attempt to put it into words--  

On a Wednesday afternoon we checked into the beautiful Mountain View Gorilla Lodge (I had no idea such places existed in Rwanda before now!). The staff was incredibly friendly, especially after I spoke to them in Kinyarwanda. We had a delicious dinner and I slept very well in my enormous room-- except for the moment when a young gentleman staff member came to add fuel to my fireplace by pounding on the door and announcing “I come to make fire!”

The next morning around 5:30AM, our lovely driver Augustine took us to the Volcano National Park entrance. The park reception area was incredibly well organized, with private guides, park guides, Rwandan dancers, tea, coffee, and around eighty or so tourists.

Augustine told us: before the treks begin, the guides put the tourists into groups based on their appeared strength and stamina. There are six different gorilla families that tourists can visit, each at a varying distance and altitude from the park entrance.

Just for fun, Augustine took me with him to meet the other guides. “Is this little white girl your tourist? Why are you bringing her to the meeting?” another guide asked Augustine in Kinyarwanda as we approached. “Excuse me?” I responded, much to the guide’s surprise. “It can’t be! You speak Kinyarwanda!” he responded. And that is how I entertained the guides for a few minutes and secured my Uncle Peter and I spots in the slow group.

Once introductions finished, we set out trekking. Our guides Beck and Placide explained that we would be visiting the Sabinio group, named after the Sabinio Mountain where they used to live. This was a large gorilla family, and included (according to our guides) the largest Silverback Gorilla in the world: Guhonda, Kinyarwanda for “to chest beat”.

Our group began trekking through potato fields and into the forest. After about an hour, we met more park guides, who told us we were very close to the gorillas. We put all our things down and continued walking, more cautiously now, and then suddenly: gorillas!

First we saw one of the group’s females with her infant. A few seconds later, the younger silverback came forward. We stood in awe. The gorillas continued their activities naturally, taking little notice of the intruding humans. We observed several females and babies: resting, cleaning each other, and playing.

After a few minutes, we heard a noise coming from the top of some bamboo trees. “Guhonda is up there,” the guides told us.  I was slightly skeptical of the supposed 260 kilogram (almost 600 lbs) silverback gorilla being able to climb to the top of bamboo trees, but then I saw him come down. Our guides told us to move back, and we did, but not as quickly as Guhonda came forward. He moved full speed towards us, swinging his arms so that his right hand nearly pushed my uncle and came within less than two feet of me.  

Once Guhonda had passed, the guides chuckled. “He’s showing off for you!” It certainly worked. We continued to watch the gorillas as they went about their business: playing. The babies were absolutely adorable-- climbing all over their mothers and pounding their chests, trying to imitate their father. It was amazing how gently and gracefully the older gorillas carried their young. The underlying similarities with human behavior I found to be the most fascinating part of our whole experience.

There was a young Australian man in our group who was very set on getting as close to the young gorillas as he could, despite the guides’ continuous reminders to step back. My uncle and I were crouched to the left of him when the bold tourist decided to move a bamboo branch out of his way ad get a better shot. The crack of the branch agitated Guhonda, who aggressively began to move forward: straight in my uncle and my direction.

From reading Fossey’s book, I know that gorillas are by nature not aggressive or violent animals. Still, I don’t think I’ve ever been so afraid in my life. Walking with lions in South Africa felt like a comedy compared to being in the presence of this silverback. I froze completely. Now I understand why the people in youtube videos pee their pants when approached by gorillas: I came pretty close. The guide standing nearby pulled me back by the shirt collar, and I watched as Guhonda rolled passed us again, this time within what seemed like less than a foot from my uncle, who remained crouched with his head down. 

It took me a minute to stand up again after Guhonda was out of sight, I was trembling everywhere! Our hour of observation was almost up and at that point. Although I still had an incredible desire to cuddle with the baby gorillas, I also felt very ready to leave them alone, and we did. Until next time, Guhonda.