Having fun in Huye

Huye's Post Office

The nearest "big city" to my site is Huye. Huye (formerly and sometimes still known as Butare) is Rwanda's second largest city, and home to the National University of Rwanda, NUR. In Huye you can also find soft serve ice cream, the National Museum of Rwanda, my often lonely postal box (hint, hint), some banks, and a couple not-so-great-but-passable-after-several-weeks-in-village western restaurants.

If you're planning a trip to Rwanda and are short on time, Huye is a city you can skip. Visit the gorillas in the Virunga Volcanoes, the monkeys and cimpanzees in Nyungwe National Forrest, relax on the lake in the calm 'city' of Kibuye/Karongi, or enjoy yourself in the slightly livelier town of Gisenyi/Rubavu. In case you happen to find yourself in Huye, here are some notes to help you around:

Orientation

Huye is located in Southern Rwanda. The city is about a two hour easy car ride south of Kigali, about two and a half or three hours east of Nyungwe National Forrest, and about 130 kilometers from Bujumbura, Burundi. 

The residential areas of the city are spread out, but the center city is rather small and easy to get around. If you are coming north from Kigali, the first thing you will see is the National Museum of Rwanda before entering town. Once you're in town you'll notice the main road continues south towards the University (and eventually Bujumbura). The other road to notice intersects and leads you towards the market (west) or the cathedral (east).

Huye Market

Lodging

Huye has a range of hotels that vary drastically in price and services. If you want to go dirt-cheap I recommend Procure Guest House. It's located just a few steps from the cathedral and is run by nuns. A single bed can run you as cheap as 2,000 RWF (around $3) per night. For this price, you will be escorted to a large building that has been split up into cubicle-style rooms with single beds, separated by very thin wooden sheets (I wouldn't go so far as to call them walls). The bathrooms and cold showers are communal. I recommend earplugs. 

For a bit more comfort and less noise, I'd recommend Beaux Arts Guest House, which is located just before the main market. Here you can get a double room for 7,000 RWF (around $12) with a private bathroom, still no hot water. 

If your wallet is padded, I'd recommend Barthos Hotel, located right next to the National University, or Hotel Ibis, smack in the middle of town. The cheaper rooms in these hotels run around 16,000 RWF (around $27). Ibis is very centrally located and has been around forever, Barthos is nice and has good food.

Inside Hotel Ibis

Food

Most bars and restaurants in Rwanda are painted blue on the outside

The food in Huye is nothing to write home about. For western style food you can visit Ibis Hotel (the food is overpriced and passable at best, however the atmosphere is generally calm and the outdoor patio is great for a relaxing, overpriced beer), or Cheers (located across the street from Ibis, slightly less overpriced and slightly more passable food). There is also a Chinese restaurant called "Chinese Restaurant" (behind the gas station next to the market) that is sometimes open, and sometimes serves delicious noodles that arrive two hours after you've placed your order. 

For local food I recommend Barthos Hotel (the chicken is delicious), Gracia Resto/Bar (a few steps down from the Chinese Restaurant, also serves delicious chicken and is a popular among University students), or what I like to call "the jungle restaurant" (on the right side of the road when you're heading south towards the University, you'll recognize it for the numerous plants on the sides): a local buffet restaurant that's always packed and has the very best chapati bread I've had in Rwanda for only 100 francs ($0.17). 

As I mentioned, Huye is also home to Rwanda's soft-serve ice cream shop Inzozi Nziza. The shop (located on the main road south, just before the University) opened a few years ago with the assistance of Blue Marble Dreams, an ice cream shop in Brooklyn, New York. Inzozi Nziza (which means "sweet dreams" in Kinyarwanda, although Rwandans seldom use this expression) has been featured in Oprah Magazine and received lots of international press, which makes the shop very popular among Western visitors (I rarely see Rwandans here). The ice cream is good when you haven't had ice cream in a long time. I would caution visitors against the sandwiches and coffee. For coffee, visit the locally started Coffee Connection shop on the same road as Inzozi Nziza, a bit further up. The service is incredibly friendly, the coffee is good and very cheap (less than a dollar for a cappuccino!). 

Entertainment

There's not too much to do in Huye town. As I mentioned, the National Museum of Rwanda is located near the northern entrance to the city. I haven't been inside the museum, but the landscape around it is beautiful and a popular place for Rwandans to take wedding pictures-- so if you're visiting on a Saturday (particularly during the month of August) expect to see large parties in the gardens. Fellow volunteers who have taken visiting family members have always had positive things to say about the museum. 

National University of Rwanda campus

I recommend taking some time to stroll around the National University of Rwanda's campus and potentially catching a glimpse of some of the monkeys that roam around (I often wonder if NUR students visiting Cornell would be as shocked by squirrels as I am by the monkeys). There are security guards at all entrances to the University who ask for identification before entering, however, I have never been stopped. 

with friends at the NUR graduation

Being a college town, Huye has a bit of nightlife, although not much. Hotel Faucon (the first building on the main street when you are coming into Huye from the north) has a nightclub inside which requires what I consider to be a ridiculous cover charge (generally $2) but the music is sometimes fun and as a female, I appreciate that very few creepers that are allowed in. There used to be a night club behind Cheers restaurant called Space Place, but it was recently closed. I hear rumors of a fun University Club close to campus, but I haven't been there personally. 

On a hot day, I'd recommend grabbing an ice cream at Inzozi Nziza and crossing the street over to Credo Hotel to hang out at the pool. Warning: if you are a single or group of young women, expect a lot of attention and chest beating from young men here-- mostly in the form of these guests doing push ups and sit ups in front of you while wearing boxer briefs. Despite this awkward distraction, the pool is relaxing. 

A few weeks ago, some friends and I decided to walk from my site to Huye. The drive takes less than an hour in a private vehicle, two hours on the bus, and took us two days walking. It was a lot of fun and a great way to enjoy the beautiful scenery without being squeezed in a bus.

After two days of walking, we finally hit tarmac! 

To conclude, my favorite piece of American influence on the intellectual city of Huye... 

Burn

WARNING: Below are graphic images of my burnt fingers that might upset you, Mama.

Those of you who know me are well aware of my tendency towards accidents. Well, here's another to add to the long list...

It was a Sunday evening and I was relaxing in my house, reading a book by candlelight, waiting for the beans to finish cooking. I walked outside to check on the charcoal stove, and when I looked up towards my house, I saw fire.

I ran into my house and found the kitchen window curtain in flames. The wind hand blown the curtain into the lit candle sitting on the table right next to the window.

I looked at the burning curtain. I looked at the 30 liter jug of water and empty basin on the floor. I looked at my computer and iTouch sitting on the table, right underneath the fire. I grabbed the burning curtain with my hands and tried to throw it into the empty basin. In case you're wondering, materials that are on fire stick to your skin quickly.

3 days after the accident

10 days after the accident--I went to the doctor and removed the dead skin

Burn marks from the fire

Community Health Workers - Repost from GAD Rwanda

Here in Rwanda I have had the pleasure of being a founding member of Peace Corps Rwanda's Gender and Development Committee. Below, my most recent post. We're doing a bunch of cool stuff-- check out the blog! 

A Community Health Worker checking for malnutrition 

In the past 18 years, Rwanda has made incredible progress in the area of gender development and gender relations. The government has made a conscious effort to include gender into most of its programs in policies, including a Ministry of Gender nad Family Promotion, and enacting gender quotas into almost all levels of representative government. Today, Rwanda has the highest percentage of women parliamentarians (56%) in the world.Critics of gender quotas and other government policies often argue these policies are top down and do not address issues on the ground.

As a community health volunteer, my primary work involves collaborating with my health center nutritionist, community health workers, and caregivers on childhood malnutrition. Sometimes, when mothers of malnourished children come in with clear evidence of domestic abuse, or tell me stories of their marital problems, I feel discouraged and inclined to agree with the argument that most gender policies in Rwanda are too top down.

More often, however, I am encouraged by the incredible work and resilience I see coming mostly from Rwanda’s Community Health Workers (CHWs). These women and men work daily to improve the health of all Rwandans, and in doing so are challenging and changing previously held gender roles and relations at the grassroots level.

Each village in Rwanda has four elected CHWs. Two are binomes (these two, by law must be one woman and one man), charged with overseeing overall healthcare of their neighbors. They are generally equipped with iron supplements, malaria medications, among other things. A third CHW is charged with maternal and infant health. This CHW advises pregnant women and mothers, and oversees child growth monitoring among other things. The fourth CHW is in charge of social affairs: a broad mandate which can include assisting in domestic disputes between husband and wife or checking up on orphan lead households. CHWs are often invited to trainings put on by local health centers, the Ministry of Health, and international NGOs.

The position of CHW is unpaid, but holds significant prestige and clout in the community. A large majority CHWs who work with my health center are women. I am filled with excitement and hope when I see these women --often older, with little to no formal education (outside the current health trainings they attend) -- lead health education sessions and growth monitoring in their communities. Men and women alike seek advice and assistance from female CHWs and acknowledge their expertise in the area of health. For their part, female and male CHWs discuss with me the obvious role of women as main decision makers in the household when it comes to health, and tailor their interventions accordingly.

While many cultural attitudes in Rwanda remain seriously gender imbalanced, I am confident that daily activities by strong female and male leaders, like Community Health Workers, are slowly changing the attitudes of all Rwandans towards a better understanding of the value provided by both genders in progress and development.  

Nate for NY

While in Ithaca for my sister’s graduation, I spent some time making phone calls at my good friend Nate Shinagawa’s campaign headquarters. Nate is running for the U.S. Congress in New York’s newly drawn 23^rd congressional district.

My freshman year of college, I attended the Cornell Democrat’s first meeting where Nate, then campaign manager for Assemblywoman Barbra Lifton, gave a very impressive and motivating speech on the importance of students getting involved in the democratic process. When I saw him a few weeks later at another university event, I unabashedly introduced myself and asked him thousands of questions. Nate and I have been great friends ever since.

Visiting Nate at his campaign headquarters in Ithaca

While on my short vacation, I made calls for Nate not only because he’s a good friend but because I truly believe in what he stands for and what he wants to accomplish. Nate is a progressive democrat who believes in supporting women’s health, strong environmental policies, and progressive education reform.

Nate is the frontrunner in June 26th's Democratic primary election. He is the only candidate with elected office experience. The Republican contender is Tea Party Republican, and current Representative, Tom Reed. Mr. Reed supports hydraulic fracking, which extracts natural gas by blasting millions of gallons of water and chemicals deep into the ground. Fracking can seriously contaminate ground water, deteriorate air quality, and release numerous toxic gasses into the air which have serious extended health consequences for the population. Reed also voted in favor of the National Defense Authorization Act, which allows for the indefinite detention of US citizens without trial.

If you believe and support progressive politics,  visit Nate’s website http://www.nateshinagawa.com/. You can make campaign donations here.

Home is Where the Heart is

My ten day trip to the USA was absolutely fantastic. As soon as I walked through the JFK arrival doors and saw my dad waving fanatically, Dunkin’ Donuts bag in hand, I knew I was home.

Within six hours of leaving the airport, I was driving up College Avenue in Ithaca to celebrate my sister Cristina’s graduation. I felt so lucky to be present, especially since Cristina and I shared two years together at Cornell. Walking through campus listening to the McGraw Clock tower, seeing old friends and professors brought me back to some of my happiest memories. I feel so incredibly fortunate for the opportunities and experiences Cornell gave me, and even luckier that I can share those with my sister.

All too quickly, I was driving south to Carlisle for some doctor appointments and more visits with friends. As I sat on my living room floor with one of my closest high school friends, who now has the most beautiful baby boy on the North American continent, I was amazed how quickly time flies. My friend’s son and my stories from Rwanda were evidence of just how much time had passed; but our giggles and candy choices (Sour Patch kids, obviously), in my childhood home, also reminded me how the important things (however small or detailed) often stay the same.

Not even forty-eight hours later, my dad and I were back on the road: this time to New York City. The highlight here was no doubt my youngest sister Daniela’s fantastic ballet show. Daniela studies at School of American Ballet and performed a solo in their spring student workshop. My mom and I sat squeezing each other’s hands as she came on stage. I am no ballet critic, but I know Daniela was without a doubt the best dancer in the performance. In New York City I met up with most of my closest friends from college, which quickly lead me to the solid decision that I will not be traveling for six months after I finish Peace Corps. Seeing the world is very, very cool, but after two years away, it doesn’t beat being with the people you love.

If you’re wondering (like everyone I ran into) if I experienced reverse culture shock, the answer is not really... or at least not in a way that I found upsetting. I think my dear cousin June took the brunt of my cross-cultural issues last December. I do, however, think Americans own way too much stuff; New Yorkers need to learn how to greet each other (you’re sharing an elevator! Say hello!); and restaurants could make their menus a little shorter… but I am very jealous of all of your iPhones.

I was a little anxious about my return to Rwanda. After spending time with my family and friends, using working toilets, and drinking so much fountain Diet Coke, did I really want to go back to the land of a thousand hills, stares, and smelly latrines? But, a few days later, as I walked towards my house and saw my eleven year old neighbor who immediately began screaming (and waving even more fanatically than my dad at JFK), announcing to all my arrival, I realized, here too, I am home.

MILK IT

A few weeks ago, the “got milk?” campaigns of my childhood came back to me as my counterpart and I discussed one of our malnutrition patients who had recently shown rapid improvement. For almost six weeks the patient in question gained no weight, and some weeks even lost weight despite a generous ration of Plumpy’nut. Then, within three weeks he was completely healthy, even plump! I asked my counterpart to what the drastic improvement was due, and she replied with a smile: “His family got a cow! Now he drinks milk every day.” I felt like I had discovered the golden elixir. Milk! We need to give all the children milk!

So, when I later read about the Government’s pledge to eliminate malnutrition and the various programs in place to do so, I seized the opportunity. In his press conference, the Prime Minister mentioned various milking drinking programs for children, including district milk drinking days.

It has been my experience that with many social development programs in sub-Saharan Africa (particularly those designed at the international and national level); resources are often given to people with long job titles but seldom used to benefit the average-child-living-on-less-than-$2-whose-picture-you-saw-on-a-UNICEF-board-and-who-you-hoped-your-donation-would-help. Could the milk initiatives fall into this trap?

The next day, I went to the local sector government office to visit a good friend with mandate over my Health Center. I asked this personal casually if my Health Center had any cows. Had I asked this question deliberately, knowing the answer, and knowing where the milk was going? Was this the first step in a plan others (concerned about corruption and malnutrition) had engineered, and I had eagerly agreed to help? How absurd! I am a silly white girl who understands next to nothing…

My friend responded energetically. Of course the health center had cows, had I not seen them? Was I not giving milk to children in the malnutrition program? Well no, this was the first I heard about cows, but I would very much like to give milk to children. I TOLD HIM! I TOLD HIM TWO MONTHS AGO TO STOP TAKING THE MILK! HE’S STEALING THE MILK! The outrage in the government official’s response was incredible.

The following day, I was called into the sector office by said government official. While I waited, I heard screaming in the adjacent room. WHAT ARE YOU THINKING? I TOLD YOU! THAT MILK IS FOR POOR PEOPLE! CHILDREN! GIVE THE MILK TO THE CHILDREN!

My heart was pounding. A few minutes later, the government official stormed back into his office and looked straight at the nutritionist, who had also been called in. YOU WILL MAKE SURE THE CHILDREN RECEIVE MILK! I WANT WEEKLY REPORTS!

To be continued…

Eliminating Malnutrition in Rwanda

While on an official visit to my district in January, Rwanda’s Prime Minister Pierre Damien Habumuremy vowed to eliminate malnutrition across Rwanda in just six months. 

I applaud the Rwandan government for vocalizing their commitment to eliminate malnutrition and taking such an active approach. In theory, this is an attainable goal. Rwanda is an incredibly fertile country, so drought and poor crop yields are not huge issues as in other parts of theworld, like the Sahel. (However, as I write, huge mudslides due to large rainfalls are devastating crops acrossRwanda this week). Furthermore, Rwanda’s community health system is extremely well organized, so community health workers should have no problem teaching the population about food security. 

The reality, of course, is much more complex than rainfalls and soil nutrients. To eliminate malnutrition it is essential to also address endemic issues like class inequality, corruption, alcohol abuse, polygamy, unemployment, and attitudes toward family planning, among many other things. Malnutrition is a problem deeply rooted in poverty. In my limited experience, I have noticed these issues take more than six months to solve.

It’s been a while since I actually blogged about my “work”, so let me describe the nutrition services at my health center as of late:

We have thirteen severely acute malnourished children and twenty two moderately acute malnourished children under the age of five. My health center covers over twenty thousand people, and I would guess the real figure is probably twice that for children under five, to say nothing of infants with chronic malnutrition, malnourished children over the age of five, or malnourished pregnant women.

Severely malnourished children under five years of age who have been identified by community health worker come in (with a caretaker) once a week for growth monitoring, physical checkups, education sessions, and a weekly ration of Ready to Eat Therapeutic Food (RUTF), commonly known by its brand name Plumpy’nut.

While the genius behind Plumpy’nut is that it can be produced almost anywhere in the world with local ingredients, Rwanda’s Ministry of Health and other international donors continue to buy tons of the brand name paste produced in France and import it to community health centers across Africa. When used correctly, treatment should not be needed for more than two consecutive months, but there are cases at my health center that have gone on for six; and a number of children relapse within two years. Although we always explain what RUTF is and why we provide it, many mothers are skeptical, sometimes give it away, and almost always insist their children prefer sosoma: fortified flour. (For further interesting discussion on Plumpy’nut, I’ll direct you here).

Moderately malnourished children under five come in twice a month for growth monitoring, education session, and a two week ration of sosoma. While sosoma is a more culturally appropriate food to give mothers, it often ends up being fed to the whole family, instead of just the malnourished child who desperately needs it. I have personally witnessed many cases where after receiving the fortified flour, a caretaker will go straight to the market and sell it. My coworkers tell me they use the money to buy sorghum beer. 

Despite some challenges, I’m really proud of how much counterpart and I have improved the nutritional services since I first arrived fifteen months ago. Physical examinations actually occur; weekly adherence by patients is higher; more house visits and education sessions are conducted; the health center kitchen gardens are functional; community health workers are leading neighborhood monthly growth monitoring at much higher rates; and all mothers who accept services from the health center adhere to modern birth control methods. Most importantly, I see how much pride my counterpart takes in the new reforms, and I know this will continue long after I leave and/or the government shifts health priorities again.

The government’s pledge to eliminate malnutrition has caused some stir in my neck of the woods. For one, the nursing staff seems slightly more interested in providing necessary antibiotics for sick, malnourished children despite their lack of health insurance. Malnourished children are rarely only malnourished. Nearly all the children come in with parasites and often pulmonary infections. When the children are given antibiotics, the subsequent weight gain can be astounding. Unfortunately, antibiotics are not given out very often.

The local government sector office is also feeling pressure, and more frequently asks for reports from the health center on malnutrition. I could go into how much more unnecessary, redundant paperwork this requires, and how much time away from real patients this takes, but I’ve done enough critiquing for one blog post.

Another exciting result of the Ministry’s pledge: the district hospital finally hired a professional nutritionist to supervise health center programs and take on the most severe malnourished cases that get referred! Although this nutritionist is often tied up in meetings, trainings, and office work, I have been extremely impressed with his rapport and enthusiasm, which seems to have also motivated (and in some cases, intimidated) other staff into being more vigilant.

At my health center, the director sat down with the community health workers and demanded they bring in all malnourished children. The CHWs complied and the numbers in both our severe and moderate malnutrition programs doubled. I was excited to have the influx of cases to treat at the health center (although slightly bitter the CHWs hadn’t listened to me over the last year when I begged them to bring in more cases I knew existed).

My counterpart, the health center nutritionist, however, looked at the new malnutrition cases with agony. “Maybe we shouldn’t record all of them. The Ministry of Health will not be happy with the higher numbers in our monthly reports.”