Tuesday, April 24, 2012

Checheka!

Checheka is the command form of guchecheka, which in Kinyarwanda means to be quiet. Checheka is what mothers say to their children when they cry. Checheka is what the battered woman told her beat up twelve year old daughter when they came into the health center at 3AM after a domestic dispute. Checheka is what my local leaders told an old man during Genocide Memorial Week when he began to name names during a community meeting. Checheka is what a coworker and friend told me after I finally lost it following a staff meeting during which, once again, personal interests and gripes of a few were put before poor, sick patients, most of them children.

As a Peace Corps Volunteer, it is very much not my job to be a whistle blower. In fact, when I have brought up corruption issues to my supervisors at Peace Corps they have specifically told me to stay away and essentially, checheka. This is of course, for my own safety and the safety of others in my community.

Lake Kivu
Those of you who know me (at all) know that it is not at all in my nature to checheka. My senior year of high school, I walked into the superintendent’s office to demand administrators give fewer, shorter speeches during graduation to allow for more student speakers. The request was denied, but brought up during said administrator’s long speech. After a Trustee dinner at Cornell, I walked up to University President and asked him why his table included only male students. The observation was noted, although I was not invited to the next dinner so I can’t tell you if it made any difference. I regret neither bold, unfruitful move. I am not shy about voicing my opinion. I have a blog after all, don’t I?

Rwandans, on the other hand, are extremely private and reserved. Keeping quiet about everything is very much part of the culture. “Rwandans, if they have something against you, they will take it to their grave!” a Burundi-raised Rwandan told a friend of mine. Besides being potentially dangerous, the probability of my foreign opinions making a difference on most larger issues here is very slim.

Still, I find myself extremely conflicted. Not only because checheka-ing goes completely against my very opinionated and vocal nature, but precisely because the culture of checheka-ing has caused literal devastation in Rwanda already.

Throughout April I am reminded how my countrymen sat by eighteen years ago and checheka-ed as almost one million people were slaughtered here.  There is no denying the horrendous role the United States and other European countries played (or didn’t play) during the 1994 Genocide. Yet, I also –quietly-- wonder how productive it is to be so critical about the silence of foreigners millions of miles away eighteen years ago, when right here in Rwanda, today, the culture remains one of silence and, at least outward, complacence.

Saturday, April 7, 2012

April

April is Rwanda’s rainiest month. Eighteen years ago in April, the plane of Rwanda’s then Hutu President Juvenal Habyarimana was shot down as it landed in Kigali. In the one hundred days that followed, almost one million people were killed in Rwanda for being of the Tutsi ethnicity, or for sympathizing with Tutsi.

Every April, Rwanda commemorates the genocide that took place here in 1994. Between April 7 and April 14, business is put on hold each afternoon and communities gather to remember the events that destroyed the country. The following one hundred days are national days of mourning. No weddings or other public celebrations of any sort are held, it’s against the law. On national television, vivid images of the massacres are shown. The radio blasts what I can only describe as the exact opposite of Christmas songs: ballads dedicated to those who were lost, pleas of unity and peace. 

Yearound, discussing ethnicity in Rwanda can land you in prison for “inciting genocidal ideology”. No one has ever told me directly whether or not they are Hutu or Tutsi. Genocide survivors live alongside perpetrators. Everyone is Rwandan now. During April only, people mourn genocide victims publicly.

“Those people that killed my parents, they are free!” a friend told me. “Are you sure?” I asked. “Yes! I saw them kill my parents, my brothers, and my sisters when I was so small” he replied. “They are not in jail?” I replied, incredulous. “They served some small time, and now, they are my neighbors again” he said, shaking his head, laughing. “You are not scared? Angry?” I asked, trying to imagine the situation. “In Rwanda, we must move forward. Everyone! It is also the government program. It is not easy, but we must.” I cannot fathom being capable of forgiveness like this.

Meanwhile, the rains continue. The ominous dark clouds cast a permanent grey shadow that perfectly reflects the national mood. Water falls from above and lands like violent tear drops on the tin roofs, as if the skies were also mourning the dead, angrily. And then, when the rains fade, you notice a change: clarity in the air, like a window after it’s been washed with Windex. You realize the bean vines have become suddenly tall. Parents finally have food to feed their malnourished children. There is an abundance of water which brings relief to everyone. Maybe there is hope after all. 

Visiting a Memorial Site, connected to a secondary school, in the Western Province