On the Road

If you want to “experience culture” in Africa, take public transportation. If it’s your first time, maybe take a Zanex with you. Some of my best and worst experiences over the last eighteen months have involved public transportation.

Moto-taxi drivers in Rwanda wear helmets and carry them for passangers

After the fantastic safari with family, I headed south and reunited with a friend who had been in PC Niger and is currently a Tanzania PCV. Our original plan was to climb Mt Hanang, Tanzania’s fourth highest mountain, but rain kept us at lower altitudes. The following day, we set off further south en route to her site.  

The “seats” on our 6AM bus were the first two behind the driver, although there were plenty of people in between. The narrow space and surface area between the driver’s seat and the first row of passenger seats was occupied by five other Tanzanians. My friend sat next to the window, knees against the driver’s seat, a backpack between her legs and another on her lap. I sat next to her, another backpack on my lap, facing a fellow passenger sitting on a makeshift seat, our knees pressed against each other.

A few seconds after we got seated, someone ran off the bus. When others followed, I figured there must be another bus leaving at the same time. Suddenly my friend urged me “Get off the bus! It’s smoking!” I looked up and realized: less than two feet in front of me the mechanical mess next to the steering wheel was, in fact, full of smoke. 

Once out of the bus, we watched the driver and a couple ticket sellers fiddle with engine and then motion to the passengers it was safe to get back on. My friend and I looked at each other and shrugged: trying to switch itineraries at this point was too complicated. A little smoke never hurt anybody.

About two hours into our bumpy journey, a big pothole caused us to fly a few inches out of our seat, for the hundredth time. Then the bus jerked sharply to the right. My backpack went flying into the isle, and my body followed. I felt my friend’s arm trying to yank me back into the seat at the same time I felt other passengers falling on and around me. The sound of people screaming was mixed with the sound of large tree branches hitting the bus. We shook right and left, up and down, and then finally (after what was in reality probably less than ten seconds) the bus hit a tree, and stopped.

I got up, and along with everyone else, got out. A woman lay on the ground in front of the bus with her eyes closed and I feared the worst, but soon realized she was just napping—all the commotion must have worn her out.

We parked ourselves about twenty feet away from the bus. “How long do you think we should wait before we try to walk or take a motorcycle?” my friend asked. The road we had been traveling on was just a sandy dirt path and our surroundings were all farmland. Neither of us knew exactly how far we were from our destination, and none of the other stranded passengers seemed sure either. After a half hour or so, some women who had been waiting near us started to walk, and we followed. One of the women offered (and then insisted) on carrying one of my backpacks.

After walking about an hour, we ran into a small village. There, one of the women asked if we might get tea. A young man escorted us to what looked like someone’s living room and we were promptly offered water to wash our hands, delicious milk tea, and of course, fried dough. My friend and I shared our bananas and mangos as well. We sat, ate, and giggled with the women for what might have been my favorite hour in Tanzania. Just as we finished our tea, someone came running into the house to announce that the bus was fixed and ready to continue. A couple more close calls and a few hours later we arrived at our destination and praised Allah for the safe arrival.

Buses leaving Nyabigogo Bus Station in Kigali

This trip was a more extreme version of many, many journeys I’ve taken since my original flight to Niger. My transportation adventures, more than anything else, have made me realize that with a little patience and a sense of humor, in the end, things usually turn out alright.

Adventures of my Electronic Equipment, Part 874

So, I’ve told you about my iTouch and cell phone adventures (parts I and II). Now let me tell you about the adventures of my digital camera.

Leaning out of the vehicle to photograph a sleepy lioness

On Safari, I took lots of pictures (more on facebook, previous posts and the pictures page of this blog). Most of these, I took from a Land Cruiser that had pop up roof. While driving around the Serengeti, I stood on my seat with my head and arms outside the vehicle. When the vehicle stopped so we could observe animals or take in a pretty view, I lifted myself out of the car and sat on the roof. At some point during one of our morning drives, I sat on the roof, and my camera fell out of my pocket, onto the ground.

When our vehicle stopped for breakfast, I searched the car to make sure the camera hadn’t fallen into a seat crack. Our drivers also searched the car, to no avail. The reality sunk in deep: my careless ways had finally gotten the best of me. My camera was gone, lost forever on the plains of the Serengeti, a toy for the hyenas.

I was pretty sulky the rest of our morning drive-- thinking about all the beautiful scenes I was unable to capture on my camera: the lovely waterproof, dustproof, and shockproof Pentax that I call my “Africa-proof” camera. It had been so good to me since I first arrived in Niger last October.

With one of our drivers, who helped find my camera

After lunch at camp, our guide told me he was going to look for the camera before our afternoon drive. Embarrassed, I thanked him for the effort, although I realized the likelihood of finding the camera was small. Still, I couldn’t help but hope. By the time four o’clock rolled around I figured the search party must have had no luck. As I walked towards the group I saw our guide and shrugged, “No luck?”

“Here it is!” he said triumphantly handing over my camera. After three hours of searching the plains, they found it!

I’d like to say I have learned my lesson. But, I also thought I had learned my lesson after the iTouch incident, and the telephone incidents. The problem is, with the sort of luck I’m having, I think I’m becoming more careless.

Save the World: Take a vacation.

When people come for two or three week volunteer projects, they often don’t mention that in addition to a desire to help, there is a very strong desire to see.

The large number of NGOs  located in the most beautiful, touristic destinations should come as no surprise. Nor should you be surprised by the lack of NGOs work in places like Niger, where the need is great but the sites are few and the weather is tolerable only on the best of days. I’ve already written some thoughts about volunteer tourism, now I’d like to offer some thoughts on an alternative for those well intentioned humanitarian souls who want to see the world and also help: take a vacation.

There are incredible sights to see and fun things to do all over the continent. Through this blog, I hope I have been able to highlight (in addition to the difficulties) some of the wonders. I would argue you can help a developing country more by paying for a responsible and well researched vacation, than volunteering on a short well fundraised service trip.  

I have run into many "volunteers" around large African cities who have completed a humanitarian project and want to finish their trip with a nice vacation. Generally, these tourists lament on how little money they have left because of the airfare and volunteer ‘required donation’ costs they’ve already spent. Naturally, these groups take the cheapest options for their vacation. What these volunteer tourists don’t realize is that sometimes the companies or tour agents they go through are doing harm to the local population and natural resources they came to ‘save’.

Exhibit A-- While on safari, our group spotted a beautiful cheetah with four young cubs. The site was rather unusual: eight or so safari vehicles in the middle of the plain, with a mama cheetah and her cubs eating a recent kill under the shade of one of the vehicles. I chuckled at the site and then felt sorry for the people in the vehicle providing shade: they might have to stay through the hot afternoon if the cheetah didn’t move. Suddenly, the vehicle under which the cheetahs had sought shade started up. The cheetah and her cubs ran in terror, we gasped in disbelief.   

Safari cars approaching the cheetah

The irresponsibility displayed by the driver of the vehicle described surprised me and infuriated our safari guide, drivers, and many in the tourism industry who discussed the event over the following week. Several less dramatic but similar instances occur regularly in the Serengeti and other national parks across the continent, particularly where the national government does not enforce strict regulation.

As it was explained to me, several budget safari companies hire drivers and other workers with little to no experience, provide no training or benefits, and then set them loose. These budget safaris get too close to animals, impede natural activities needed for survival (such as hunting), and generally do not respect the environment they are in. They take their guests to tourist shops where the “handmade crafts” are made in China.

Here I would argue: if you do your research you can help a lot. There are many safari companies, guest camps, and lodges that, for a higher cost, can do a great amount of good. Reputable companies offer great training, jobs, and experience for lots of people. These jobs are *magic development word alert* sustainable. The local population is involved in serious income generating, and receive valuable, and relevant training in skills that are transferable—all without a paternalistic Western donor. The clients involved involved are paying real money for real services. Handouts are not involved: just simple business. 

I will be the first to admit (again) that I have been and in many ways, still am, a volunteer tourist, albeit my stay is longer. I must also confess that in the past I have always opted for the cheaper route, and would have probably done so again if it were not for my family’s generosity. I have now started to do research on tourism for future trips I am planning.

I have already conceded that my experiences as a Peace Corps Volunteer have turned me into a firm supporter of the free-market and capitalism; they might be turning into a Republican, although now I’m thinking more along the lines of a Libertarian. It’s possible that I am also becoming a cynic.This post is not meant to dissuade anyone from volunteering anywhere (particularly if you have a valuable skill to contribute), but I do hope to provide some food for thought before you start fundraising to build a schoolhouse in Guatemala.

I will conclude this blog by reminding you about my disclaimers, located on the upper right hand side of this blog. Also keep in mind that I did no research to write this note; that I am not a development expert; that I have never worked professionally in the hospitality industry (or any industry). You are free to scoff at these ramblings, and know, that you probably know better. 

Seen on Safari

For my zoologically curious friends, a list of the animals and some of the birds we saw on safari (thanks Charley, for passing on the list!): 

Rhino
Bush buck

Camel (this was a tourist trap)
Baboon (with babies)
Cheetah (with babies)
Bush baby (Lesser galago)
Leopard
Hippo (with baby)
Cape buffalo
Crocodile
Lion(ess) with cubs
Golden jackal
Warthog (with wartlet)
Elephant (and very young baby)
Topi
Vervet monkey
Colobus monkey
Stienbok

Black backed jackals
Golden jackal
Dwarf mongoose
Aardvark
Bat-eared foxes
Giraffe
Zebra (with baby)
African wild cat
African scrub Hare
Leopard Tortoise
Eland
Hartebeeste (Kongoni)

Spotted Hyena
Striped hyena
Wildebeest (white bearded Gnu, with baby)
Thompsons gazelle
Grants gazelle
Dik Dik
Impala
Water buck
Reedbok
Hyrax
Terrapin
Grass snake

Birds we identified:

Crown crane
Kori busterd
Cattle egret
Red capped lark
Rufus naped lark
Paradise whydah (very long tail only during mating season)
Black chested snake eagle
Black shouldered kite

Spoonbill
Lesser and greater Flamingo
Superb Starling
Hoopoe (woodpecker like bird)
Guinea fowl
Secretary bird
Ostrich
Vulture
Yellow throated long-claw bird
Fishers lovebird
Tawny eagle
Maribou stork

Tanzanian Safari

Flying over the new Lengai crate

After a fantastic whirlwind trip around Rwanda, my uncle and I headed east to Tanzania. In Arusha we met three of my cousins and two friends for a ten day safari. We began our trip by flying from Arusha to Nduara Camp, on the Serengeti plains just east of the National Park border. On our way, we flew over Ol Doinyo Lengai (which the Masai people refer to as “Mountain of God”) and saw its new crater, a result of the mountain’s volcanic eruption less than two years ago. 

Lengai

The plains at Nduara Camp were very dry due to delayed rainfalls and heavy usage by  Masai, who graze thousands of cattle on the plains. The first few days we were accompanied by what seemed like all the 450,000 gazelle living in the Serengeti; quite a few giraffe, many zebra and hyena, and a pride of elephants with babies. The most stunning part of Nduara for me was the sheer vastness of the plains. It was absolutely breathtaking, and a real change for my eyes which have seen nothing but rolling hills for the last year.  

Serengeti plains near Nduara Camp

After a few days at the Nduara Camp we drove west to Ndutu, a wetter area where we were able to observe more wildlife. Our first morning at the camp I woke up to catch a glimpse of two adult and one baby wildebeest running from a hyena less than fifty feet away from me. At Ndutu, we also had a chance to catch a view of more zebra, elephants, wildebeest, buffalo, flamingo, some cheetah with cubs, two lion prides, hippos, a leopard, and even a crocodile.

Most evenings ended with a beautiful sunset, equipped with fire, seats, and a drink

Our last safari stop was Ngorogoro Crater—an unbroken, unflooded volcanic caldera. It was formed when a giant volcano erupted over two million years ago. The crater is 2,000 feet deep and covers 100 square miles. Again, I was more impressed with the landscape than the animals. The fact that we were inside a volcano with so much life around us was something I couldn’t seem to wrap my head around.

Wildebeest blocking the road at Ngorogoro Crater

The Crater was fantastic, something I feel incredibly lucky to have seen and won’t ever forget. But, after over a week of working really hard to see animals on the plains, Ngorogoro felt a little9 bit like a petting zoo. The animals were completely habituated to the presence of large safari cars and did not move a bit. In fact, the wildebeest would not leave the road to let us pass! Here we saw (among other things) more hyena, buffalo, lions, hippo, and rhino.

Ngorogoro Crater

At the Ngorogoro Crater Lodge, I opened a National Geographic magazine in the bathroom. Expecting to read an article about the exotic place I was currently in (what else does the National Geographic write about, other than incredibly exceptional things?!), I was surprised to see an article about Central Pennsylvania. I guess exotic and interesting are terms open for interpretation.

After our Crater visit, I said goodbye to my uncle and cousins at the Kilimanjaro Airport, where they went on to catch international flights. I re-boarded the plane we had taken from outside the Crater and headed to the smaller Arusha airstrip close to town. Steve, the very friendly pilot, let me drive the plane back! That’s right: yours truly, who at sixteen couldn’t drive a golf cart in a straight line, maneuvered a plane in Africa. Fantastic trip.
 

The Greatest of the Great Apes

Less than 800 mountain gorillas exist in the whole world today. They live on only six extinct volcanic mountains within the Virunga Volcanoes, located on the borders of Rwanda, Uganda, and the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Diane Fossey (shout out Cornell!) is often attributed with bringing celebrity to what she called “the greatest of the great apes” in her book Gorillas in the Mist.

Before describing in detail the whole gorilla trekking experience and encouraging any and every one to do it, I just need to say: I have never in my life wanted to -at the same time- hug and run from anything, as much as I did the mountain gorillas. Of all the animal encounters and all the unusual adventures I’ve had so far in my short twenty-three years of life, I think this was the most awesomely, bizarrely, terrifying and magnificent experience I have had. This is my poor attempt to put it into words--  

On a Wednesday afternoon we checked into the beautiful Mountain View Gorilla Lodge (I had no idea such places existed in Rwanda before now!). The staff was incredibly friendly, especially after I spoke to them in Kinyarwanda. We had a delicious dinner and I slept very well in my enormous room-- except for the moment when a young gentleman staff member came to add fuel to my fireplace by pounding on the door and announcing “I come to make fire!”

The next morning around 5:30AM, our lovely driver Augustine took us to the Volcano National Park entrance. The park reception area was incredibly well organized, with private guides, park guides, Rwandan dancers, tea, coffee, and around eighty or so tourists.

Augustine told us: before the treks begin, the guides put the tourists into groups based on their appeared strength and stamina. There are six different gorilla families that tourists can visit, each at a varying distance and altitude from the park entrance.

Just for fun, Augustine took me with him to meet the other guides. “Is this little white girl your tourist? Why are you bringing her to the meeting?” another guide asked Augustine in Kinyarwanda as we approached. “Excuse me?” I responded, much to the guide’s surprise. “It can’t be! You speak Kinyarwanda!” he responded. And that is how I entertained the guides for a few minutes and secured my Uncle Peter and I spots in the slow group.

Once introductions finished, we set out trekking. Our guides Beck and Placide explained that we would be visiting the Sabinio group, named after the Sabinio Mountain where they used to live. This was a large gorilla family, and included (according to our guides) the largest Silverback Gorilla in the world: Guhonda, Kinyarwanda for “to chest beat”.

Our group began trekking through potato fields and into the forest. After about an hour, we met more park guides, who told us we were very close to the gorillas. We put all our things down and continued walking, more cautiously now, and then suddenly: gorillas!

First we saw one of the group’s females with her infant. A few seconds later, the younger silverback came forward. We stood in awe. The gorillas continued their activities naturally, taking little notice of the intruding humans. We observed several females and babies: resting, cleaning each other, and playing.

After a few minutes, we heard a noise coming from the top of some bamboo trees. “Guhonda is up there,” the guides told us.  I was slightly skeptical of the supposed 260 kilogram (almost 600 lbs) silverback gorilla being able to climb to the top of bamboo trees, but then I saw him come down. Our guides told us to move back, and we did, but not as quickly as Guhonda came forward. He moved full speed towards us, swinging his arms so that his right hand nearly pushed my uncle and came within less than two feet of me.  

Once Guhonda had passed, the guides chuckled. “He’s showing off for you!” It certainly worked. We continued to watch the gorillas as they went about their business: playing. The babies were absolutely adorable-- climbing all over their mothers and pounding their chests, trying to imitate their father. It was amazing how gently and gracefully the older gorillas carried their young. The underlying similarities with human behavior I found to be the most fascinating part of our whole experience.

There was a young Australian man in our group who was very set on getting as close to the young gorillas as he could, despite the guides’ continuous reminders to step back. My uncle and I were crouched to the left of him when the bold tourist decided to move a bamboo branch out of his way ad get a better shot. The crack of the branch agitated Guhonda, who aggressively began to move forward: straight in my uncle and my direction.

From reading Fossey’s book, I know that gorillas are by nature not aggressive or violent animals. Still, I don’t think I’ve ever been so afraid in my life. Walking with lions in South Africa felt like a comedy compared to being in the presence of this silverback. I froze completely. Now I understand why the people in youtube videos pee their pants when approached by gorillas: I came pretty close. The guide standing nearby pulled me back by the shirt collar, and I watched as Guhonda rolled passed us again, this time within what seemed like less than a foot from my uncle, who remained crouched with his head down. 

It took me a minute to stand up again after Guhonda was out of sight, I was trembling everywhere! Our hour of observation was almost up and at that point. Although I still had an incredible desire to cuddle with the baby gorillas, I also felt very ready to leave them alone, and we did. Until next time, Guhonda. 

Nyungwe National Forest

Nyungwe Forest is the largest mountain rain forest in Africa, located in the southwest corner of Rwanda. It stands almost 3000 meters above sea level at its highest pointand is home to 360 different plant and flower species; 270 different types of birds; and lots of different animal species, including all sorts of monkeys and chimpanzees.

Blue Monkey

The first time I saw Nyungwe Forest was about a month after arriving in Rwanda. I drove through the forest on my way to the western city Cyangugu, where I attended a Peace Corps conference. Having trekked through the Sahara desert by camel in Morocco less than a month before, the green blew me away last March. It was interesting to return now, almost a year later, and realize how familiar I have become with the breathtakingly beautiful scenery that covers Rwanda.

My uncle Peter and I arrived at the park around 10am, way too late to do any good bird watching or catch the monkeys and chimpanzees. Still, we arranged to hike our way through part of the forest to the recently built canopy. 

Crossing the canopy bridge with our guide

Right before stepping onto the canopy our guide pointed out a monkey hanging in the tree. After a few seconds, we realized there was in fact a big group of blue monkeys gathered around! We observed them eating small fruits, jumping lengths of what seemed to me at least 30 feet, and making all sorts of silly sounds to get each other’s attention.

We proceeded to walk across the canopy, which is broken into three sections and crosses about 75 meters. In the land of 1,000 hills, I often daydream about the conveniences of having bridges that connect one hilltop to another. These could turn an hour long trip into a ten minute walk:  if only I didn’t have to walk half a mile around the valley that separates one hill from another! I always dread hearing a Rwandan tell me we’re taking the “shortcut” because I know it means instead of going around the valley, on the hilltops, we’re going to walk directly down this hill and up the next. 

Well, I can now safely say that I’ve lived this daydream and I won’t have it again. The views were spectacular and I’m very glad I did it: but I also realized that I am developing a fear of heights.

While walking across the canopy and hanging onto the metal ropes for dear life, I was able to take in spectacular views and catch a peak of the most beautiful bird I think I’ve ever seen: the purple chested sunbird. I’ve always thought bird watching was silly, but after admiring several different birds in Rwanda I think I’ve joined the cult.

Purple Chested Sunbird

The Rwandan government has done, and continues to do, a lot to try and conserve, preserve, and expand its national forests. This is evident in Nyungwe, which is extremely well kept and truly a pleasure to walk and drive through.

Dada-wacu

At the beginning of February, my Uncle Peter came to visit Rwanda before taking me on an incredible safari in Tanzania. It was fantastic to show a family member (and Returned Peace Corps Volunteer) what my life is like right now, and to introduce my colleagues and neighbors to “another” member of my family (Ben, everyone asked about you!). 

Crossing the canopy at Nyungwe Forest

It was also fascinating to see Rwanda from a tourist’s perspective. After fourteen months, Rwanda has truly become home and I have become accustomed to just about everything (almost). Answering my uncle’s questions and observing what he found interesting was really fun and reminded me how lucky I am to be here.

In five short days we were able to cover most of the country: including Nyungwe Forest and Volcano National Park, which I’ll write about separately. My uncle was a really great sport and put up with the incredibly long drives on dirt roads magnificently. We even got to spend a couple hours at my site, where several of my older female colleagues giggled like kindergartners meeting Mickey Mouse at Disney World, and everyone insisted I teach my uncle Kinyarwanda because of course five days is enough to learn the entire language.